Unseen on the surface, yet undeniably there—the story of cantáte’s slacks

Good evening. I’m Matsushima from cantáte.

Slacks may look “all the same” because their appearance is so simple.

But if you look closely and carefully, you can see why they have such a good atmosphere.

Today, I would like to introduce the small refinements incorporated into cantáte’s slacks.

If you do not pay attention, you will never notice it.

But that is the essence of the atmosphere you can never achieve without making it with care.

 

 

■ “Fingerless pleats” for beautiful shadows and highlights

Even if you try to put a finger inside the pleat, you cannot.

Because the inside is flattened with diagonal stitching.

The reason is simple: the shadows and highlights are more beautiful that way.

That is all.

But whether or not you take the trouble to do “just that” determines the overall character of the slacks.

■ The belt loops use sewn-and-turned construction

cantáte’s belt loops are neither stitch-attached nor Louis-stitched; they use the traditional sewn-and-turned construction.

This construction prevents the belt from catching when threaded and keeps friction from breaking the thread.

It was once standard, but is now rarely seen.

■ The fly-front stitching is “hand-sewn” with honboshi

cantáte’s slacks feature a button fly.

Compared with a zipper, more fabric overlaps, and because the thickness and movement call for softness, the fly-front stitching is hand-sewn.

Hand sewing has neither a top thread nor a bobbin thread. That is precisely why it produces such a soft expression.

That leads to the gentle “drape” you feel when wearing them.

■ How the belt loops are attached: upper “octopus,” lower “scissors”

This construction would be overkill on jeans.

But this is standard in the world of dresswear.

 

It is based on the idea of showing no seam allowance above or below, perhaps comparable, in footwear, to a “half-black” or “seamless heel,” and, in belts, to a “beveled edge.”

They are properly finished because someone is paying attention.

■ Split-bead double-welt pockets (9 mm)

A machine takes a few dozen seconds. By hand, each one takes more than 15 minutes.

Moreover, rather than 10 mm, it is deliberately finished at 9 mm.

Why?

Because we want you to see at a glance that “this was made by hand.”

Moreover, because it has been shaped in advance, the pockets do not gape when worn.

■ CB split and a gurikan made “by hand”

In reality, more people let out the waist than take it in.

And yet, most brands secure theirs with machine bartacks.

cantáte carefully finishes it with a “gurikan” that can only be made by hand.

It leaves no marks and can be altered.

I believe that is what true consideration means.

Moreover, there are many mysterious constructions out there where the seat has generous seam allowance, but the waist has none.

You should pay attention to this when buying, you know?

■ Extra-wide waistband facing with hakama extensions

This is a part that greatly affects comfort.

Slacks are garments worn with a waistband facing, not merely a “belt”.

The waistband facing has three functions:

1. To conceal the seam allowance of the outer waistband

2. To keep the shirt from coming untucked (as an anti-slip measure)

3. To stabilize the area around the “hip bone” below the waist

At cantáte, two hakama pieces are secured by hand hemming on either side of the side seam.

That is why the fit and sense of security feel different when worn.

■ Pocket design that prevents debris from accumulating

Turn the pocket lining of a well-worn pair of slacks or jeans inside out and take a look.

They are usually dirty or full of debris… because they’re filthy (laughs).

cantáte’s pockets are designed structurally so that debris is unlikely to collect and easy to remove if it does.

It may be understated, but details like this make a surprising difference.

■ The stay is cut-edge finished and hand-hemmed

A “stay” is the fabric that supports the golden balls.

In the past, people wore no underwear and wrapped themselves in their shirt hems, so this was a lifeline.

At cantáte, this stay is cut-edge finished and secured with hand hemming.

Moreover, a stay is hand-sewn to the extension, providing a gentle “snug” support when worn.

It may be understated, but this gives the trousers an incredibly addictive comfort.

■ Button-fly construction, hand-sewn of course

A zipper? It breaks.

Moreover, plastic buttons cannot be repaired.

A button fly may look simple, but it is the No. 1 specification that no one will make even if you offer to pay extra.

cantáte takes this part seriously by choice: basting it, setting the canvas, and making the buttonholes in the correct positions.

You’ll understand once you wear them.

■ Hand-sewn buttons

It may be obvious, but hand-sewn buttons are beautiful.

You can clearly feel the difference both in how they wear and under your fingertips.

■ Generous seam allowances

Comfortable even if you gain weight. Alterable if you lose it.

cantáte’s slacks retain a generous amount of seam allowance.

The stability around the seat, in particular, owes much to this “extra room.”

It is precisely the extra room that creates kindness and beauty.

■ Flat waistband finish

The waistband looks thin and flat, while structurally it is finished with layered seams offset so that no seam allowances press against the body.

The waist does not bunch up, and the line looks clean when worn.

Finally,

If you have read this far,

You may have found yourself thinking, “Slacks are actually much more profound than I realized.”

cantáte’s slacks are by no means flashy.

But “who is paying attention to what, and why”—

Each of these details, built up one by one, is packed into this pair.

The next time you pick up a pair of slacks,

The corners of the pocket openings, the finishing of the belt loops, and the seam allowance at the seat curve, among other details,

Please take a look at the inside and the edges.

“Whether it has been properly made”

I believe that is precisely where honesty reveals itself.

 

cantáte 松島 紳