“Are all shirts really the same?”

Good evening. I’m Matsushima from cantáte.

 

Do you think all shirts are the same──?

 

But,Whether the collar settles without twisting.

Whether the stripes line up neatly at the collar points.

They are determined by the precision of cutting and sewing, down to just a few millimeters.

The conditions for making a good shirt are not readily visible from the outside.

They are revealed precisely in the less conspicuous undersides, seam allowances, and fineness of the stitches.

The collar roll, the way the sleeves settle, the beauty of the stitching──.

Everything is determined by how much care is given to the “unseen parts.”

Today, I would like to take a closer look at the “accumulation” that we value in making cantáte shirts.

There is always a reason why a shirt looks beautiful.

・Being cut straight

 

When the fabric is cut straight, the collar will not twist when sewn according to the pattern, and the stripes will continue cleanly all the way to the collar points.

It may seem obvious, yet it is something many shirts fail to achieve.

 

・The presence of a floating interlining

 

We use “floating interlinings” in the collars and cuffs.

Common fusible interlinings are bonded with adhesive, which makes the appearance stiff and can sometimes cause them to peel after repeated washing.

A floating interlining is an “independent structure” in which a cloth, similar to sateen, is inserted while left unattached.

That is why it flexes naturally with your movements and grows more comfortable against the body the more you wear it.

This construction is what allows the collar to roll beautifully while retaining a soft appearance.

The strength of a floating interlining is that the collar and cuffs settle without wrinkling, no matter how many times they are washed.

 

・Felled armhole seams

 

the armhole seams are joined edge to edge and enclosed with a felled seam.

Unlike a conventional felled seam,Because there is no difference between the inner and outer diameters, raising and lowering the arms is exceptionally smooth.

The seam allowances lie neatly and do not feel bulky against the skin.

It also increases strength and makes the shirt less likely to lose its shape, even after long wear.

It is precisely because these areas are unseen that they make a difference to comfort.

 

・Fine stitch density

 

The stitch density is set finely.

The stitches are beautifully even, creating a refined appearance.

It is difficult to notice at a glance, yet it is an important element that influences the shirt’s presence.

 

・The precision of edge stitching

 

The stitching on the cuffs and collar attachment is set right at the edge, along the “edge stitch.”

It is a matter of just a few millimeters, but if this is done loosely, the dimensions become inaccurate, the cuffs no longer settle properly, and the whole shirt takes on an unsophisticated appearance.

It is a detail that clearly reveals the sewer’s skill and plays an important role in determining the shirt’s “character.”

 

・Shell buttons and hand-sewn construction

 

All buttons are thick genuine shell buttons.

Rather than inexpensive, thin shell, we select substantial, thick pieces, so their luster and presence are entirely different.

Furthermore, each one is sewn on by hand by a skilled artisan.

that the buttons are hand-sewn rather than machine-sewn, allowing the thread shank to be securely wrapped and creating an appropriate amount of “play” between the buttons and fabric.

It is precisely because of this extra roomThe buttons fasten and unfasten smoothly, and the thread is less likely to break.

The difference is small visually,It is one of the important accumulated details that directly contributes to ease of care and durability.

 

・About garment washing

 

All of cantáte’s “washable” products undergo garment washing.

That is why, not only denim but shirts as well can be washed at home without worrying about shrinkage.

In fact, this garment washingMany brands give the impression of doing it, but do not actually do so.

Because it requires time, effort, and cost, it is often omitted.

But,You can put it on with confidence from the very day you buy it.

The size and appearance remain stable even after repeated washing.

We believe that sense of reassurance is the most important quality in everyday clothing.

 

 

The “presence” created by this accumulation

 

Having read this far, you should now be beginning to see the “qualities of a good shirt.”

A refined presence is never accidental.

It is precisely because of this accumulation of details that they look so natural.

cantáte shirts are made from a continuous accumulation of these small details.

The next time you put on a shirt,Take a moment to examine the collar roll, the way the cuffs settle, and the beauty of the stitching.

You will surely begin to see the reason it simply feels “good.”

 

 

 

The expression of a shirt told by its fabric

 

If the shirt’s construction is its foundation, another essential element is the fabric itself.

This season, cantáte has prepared two main types of flannel shirts.

 

 

cantáte

"Rough Flannel Shirt"

Color : GREEN BASE / BLUE BASE / SAX BASE / PINK BASE

Size : 44 / 46 / 48

At first glance, it is simply a checked flannel.

ButYou can feel the difference the moment you touch itIt should be.

A flannel made with loosely twisted warp and weft yarns, woven loosely as well.

The fabric is then brushed on the inside, trapping air between the yarns to achieve a plump softness and lightness.

but offers a cocooning comfort, as if wrapped in a blanket.

It is not especially thick or heavy,Soft, yet dependable.

The “ideal flannel shirt,” designed to be worn from early autumn through early spring.

The chest pocket is set at an angle, adding just a touch of playfulness.

The colors are 〈BLUE BASE〉 and 〈PINK BASE〉.

 

cantáte

"Brushed Nep Check Shirt"

Color : BLACK BASE / MILK BASE

Size : 44 / 46 / 48

This is, at first glance, a classic, rugged work shirt.

By blending a small amount of “nep” into the yarn, a natural depth of texture emerges.

The softness unique to flannel, with just a touch of individuality.

The more you wash it, the more character it develops, letting you enjoy the feeling of watching it grow into a one-of-a-kind piece.

The chest pocket has a flap, while the placket features square buttons.

The details aim for the perfect balance between ruggedness and refinement.

The colors are 〈BLACK BASE〉 and 〈MILK BASE〉.

It is understated, yet reveals its individuality when you look closely.

This is truly a flannel shirt with “just the right amount of individuality.”

 

Rough Flannel Shirt (183cm Size: 48)

 

Brushed Nep Check Shirt (183cm Size: 48)

 

The “difference” you discover when wearing it

 

We have talked this far about “construction” and “fabric,” but you truly understand the difference when you put it on.

The collar rolls naturally, creating a clean look around the face,

The cuffs follow the wrist without standing away from it, refining the silhouette.

The reason it looks “put-together” when you just throw it on is the accumulation of carefully considered details.

The Rough Flannel Shirt has character even when simply paired with denim.

The Brushed Nep Check Shirt retains its presence even when worn under a jacket.

The reason a flannel shirt can make you think, “This flannel shirt actually looks good,” is because its details are so well considered.

“All shirts are basically the same.”

Those who have thought that way will surely notice the difference.

After all, the young Matsushima was exactly the same.

But once you have learned to recognize the “difference,” there is no going back.

Having an eye for quality may be a pleasure, but it can also be a little troublesome.

 

cantáte Matsushima Shin