Even with the same design, a change in material makes the garment an entirely different piece.

Good evening. I’m Matsushima from cantáte.

In spring and summer,

When spring and summer arrive, what everyone expects from clothing suddenly becomes simpler.

Light.

Cool.

Washable.

Comfortable.

Of course, that in itself is not wrong.

Since it is hot, it is only natural to seek comfort.

But when you begin choosing clothes based on those criteria alone,

They generally become boring somewhere along the way.

They are light, but feel insubstantial.

They are cool, but look impoverished.

are comfortable to wear, but when you see yourself in the mirror, something feels slightly lacking.

Spring/summer jackets,

I think there are many garments that are exactly like that.

You wear it in hot weather, so it cannot be helped.

It is better than being heavy.

Even if it does not look polished, staying cool is what matters.

understand that you can make that compromise.

But I also

The moment you resign yourself to that, much of what makes clothing interesting is lost.

that is what I believe.

Because it is a jacket,

it still needs a certain sense of structure.

Not merely something to throw on,

Having a little definition when worn.

Looking put-together without having to be on guard.

Being comfortable without looking sloppy.

<cantáte>

"C/Li Double Cloth Directors Jacket"

COL : NOIR

¥308,000 TAX IN

※The cuffs are delivered in an unfinished specification.
If you would like the sleeves shortened, please feel free to contact us even when ordering from the online store.
We do charge for alterations, but please feel free to contact us for advice.

 

We made this to resolve that contradiction:

this time’s Directors Jacket.

The Cashmere × Linen model we made previously is

It was quite special, both in its material and its tailoring.

that was a special garment, and I personally have a great deal of attachment to it.

However, to be honest,

it was not something we could easily recommend from a price perspective.

In practice,

“I really love the concept, but I can’t quite stretch to that.”

We heard this sentiment quite often as well.

I think that is only natural.

No matter how good a garment is, if its price strays too far from reality,

there is a line that cannot be crossed by preference alone.

so this time,

While retaining the thinking behind this jacket,

I wanted to make it something people could choose more realistically.

A cotton-rayon body lining, cupro sleeve lining, and neatly refined narrow piping.

I absolutely love this view that appears when you turn a half-lined jacket inside out.

 

The broad-bean-shaped armholes, carefully hand-felled.

And the beautifully finished sleeve bottoms, secured with star tacks so the seam allowances do not bunch up.

although these are details no one sees, I believe the elegance of a garment reveals itself in this kind of finishing.

 

That said,

I absolutely did not want to take the garment in a direction where it would look cheap.

This is a particularly important point:

lowering the price and lowering the stature of a garment are completely separate matters.

there is a tendency in the world to think that

in exchange for keeping the price down,

By removing the canvas, omitting the lining, and reducing the labor,

There are plenty of garments that end up as “a jacket that looks the part.”

But garments like that

It may look good at first, but you can tell as soon as you wear it.

lightweight, but insubstantial.

soft, but without definition.

comfortable, but lacking both tension and elegance.

In other words,

It makes the wearer look careless.

that was the one thing I wanted to avoid.

That is why, for the material,

newly developed for this season

Double-Layered Cotton-Linen Cloth is used.

The contrast between the dry cotton-linen and the sheen of the buffalo horn buttons.

Each buffalo horn button has a distinct character and develops more luster with wear.

 

Woven from cotton and French linen,

a double weave with fullness and resilience.

When you hear “double weave,” it sounds heavy,

This fabric is, in fact, the opposite.

and it is lighter than it looks because it contains air within the weave.

Because linen provides structure,

the definition a jacket needs remains firmly in place.

Because it has the softness of cotton,

and does not impose awkward tension when worn.

It has a dry, clean hand,

It is less likely to cling even in sweaty weather.

Yet it does not look like an extension of a thin, flimsy shirting fabric.

Lightness, coolness, definition, and elegance.

I wanted all of that to coexist without compromising it as much as possible.

The collar is constructed as a single piece, omitting the collar stand.

This creates a soft, natural roll.

The body and shoulder seams are finished by hand.

The handwork creates a distinctive ease and allows it to follow the body's movement naturally, like action pleats.

Spring/summer clothing

 

the less there is to hide behind.

The thinner it is,

you can create an impression through weight, thickness, and layering.

In autumn and winter,

But spring and summer are different.

It also has to stand on its own.

It must look composed as a single piece.

That is precisely why

The choice of material directly becomes the garment's persuasiveness.

The tailoring is the same.

Thread loops provide a little ease in the lining.

 

The vent is made with a framed construction, sewn without cutting the seam allowances.

which is how it should be when alterations are taken into consideration.

 

Once again made with a half-lined construction,

The body lining isCotton × rayon、

the sleeve lining uses cupra stripe.

Furthermore,

piping, pick stitching, and hand-sewn finishing on the underside of the collar and inner shoulder seamssuch as

we have carefully worked on details that cannot be seen.

Even at this price point,

The reason we did not cut corners in those areas

because omitting the unseen parts ultimately shows in the appearance as well.

Clothing is a curious thing:

People do not need to see a specification sheet

People can somehow sense whether a garment is properly made, even without seeing its specifications.

That is probably because

The unseen work

it changes the impression it gives.

When you throw it on,

“It looks somehow properly made.”

its true character lies there.

this season's Directors Jacket

Rather than simply being the previous version in a different fabric,

A piece that brings the thinking behind this design closer to reality

That is what I believe.

More accessible than the previous one.

that it is not a simple garment.

Rather, it is precisely because we do this much at this price point

It has meaning.

it is not an inexpensive garment.

But

This is a garment whose higher price can be properly explained.

Wearing a jacket in hot weather

it also means going a little further than necessary.

That is precisely why

I want to make clothes whose deliberate excess has a clear purpose.

It's not just lightweight.

It's not just cool.

And yet, there is a reason you will want to throw it on.

It's a spring/summer jacket like that.

 

cantáte Matsushima Shin