Let’s start with denim.
When a season begins, I first think about what to start gathering.
For me, the answer is always pants.
Hello.
This is Tomioka from cliché.
Even when your top changes, or your shoes change, things surprisingly work out if your pants are right. For me, pants are the foundation for thinking about what to wear each season.
At just such a time, an item arrived from cantáte that makes you want to say, “Start here.”
This is denim that has been continuously produced since the brand was founded.
WW II T-Back Jacketincluding, the trousers are Denim Straight, Tapered, and Flare TrousersThe three styles are now available.
When you think of cantáte, it has to be denim.
The fabric used this time is a denim developed from cantáte’s own perspective, based on 1950s LEVI’S 501XX denim.
Taking the atmosphere of the period into account, even the warp tension and yarn count have been adjusted. It looks unmistakably like substantial denim, yet feels dry and light to the touch. That gap between appearance and comfort is another intriguing quality of this fabric.
Rather than simply reproducing denim from the past, the goal is to make something that can truly continue to be worn in modern life.
Retaining the goodness of the past while wearing it as clothing for today.
I think that is what cantáte’s staple denim is all about.
This time, we will look at these denims one by one.
<cantáte>
"WW II T-Back Jacket"
¥71,500 TAX IN
The design is based on the S506XXE, commonly known as the “War Model.”
It deliberately adopts the “T-back construction” that existed only in larger sizes at the time. Details found on the original, such as the center-back seam and cinch back, have been carefully incorporated.
The more interesting details are even finer.
The collar retains subtly meandering stitching, and even the left and right box stitches differ in shape when you look closely.
“Is this misaligned?”
It may look that way at first. But in fact, everything was intentionally made that way.
If the aim were to make it clean and uniform, that would be easy enough today. Instead, it deliberately avoids being too refined, preserving even the “irregularities” and “slight incongruities” found in vintage pieces from the time.
What has been reproduced is not only the construction, but even its imperfections.
This is where I feel the essence of cantáte.
The fabric is gently broken in from the start, so it lacks that denim-jacket feeling of having to wear it in first. It settles into the body from the very first day you put it on, while still leaving plenty of room for the fading and changes that come with age.
It has a vintage atmosphere. But it is not simply tracing something from the past.
Wearing the goodness of the past as clothing for today.
Every detail, as well as the comfort, has been considered with that purpose in mind. When I look at this jacket, I feel the essence of cantáte in it.
<cantáte>
"Denim Straight Trousers"
¥49,500 TAX IN
The silhouette is a classic straight fit based on the 501XX.
Among cantáte’s denim trousers, these have the fullest cut, but they are somewhat different from what are commonly called wide-leg trousers. Neither too wide nor too slim, they settle naturally into the wearer’s build and style.
In the end, this kind of straight fit is the most dependable.
Whether with sneakers, leather shoes, or sandals, it works with anything and has the versatility to accommodate whatever you are wearing that day.
BLACK is also denim dyed with sulfur all the way through the weft.
Rather than simply fading to a whitish tone with wear, it gradually develops a sense of depth while retaining the varying shades of black.
New black is not the final form; I also want to enjoy the black that emerges through wear.
Precisely because these are denim trousers you will wear repeatedly as a staple, they are made to be lived with through every change they undergo.
The front features a classic button-fly construction.
While retaining the substantial character of denim, they are softer to wear than you might expect. With a one-wash finish, you can wear them comfortably from the start without worrying about significant shrinkage.
For those choosing cantáte denim for the first time, as well as those who have already worn many pairs of denim.
If you are unsure, start with this pair.
Even when trends change or your mood shifts from day to day, you will ultimately want to wear them again. We think Straight Trousers are that kind of denim.
<cantáte>
"Denim Tapered Trousers"
COL : INDIGO
¥49,500 TAX IN
The silhouette is based on the W40-inch size of the classic 505.
By deliberately using a larger size as the base, we retain ample room through the waist and thighs, then shape the line so it gradually narrows toward the hem.
They are tapered, but not tapered to make the legs look slim.
The room around the waist means they work with a T-shirt or sweatshirt, while a tucked-in shirt and leather shoes also come together naturally.
For casual occasions or days when you want to dress up a little.
A tapered fit that does not dictate how it should be worn.
We think that degree of freedom is just right for this pair.
This is the longest-running model in the denim series.
A tapered silhouette with a center crease that accentuates its refined character.
From a clean waistline to a naturally relaxed seat.
They gradually narrow toward the hem, creating an elegant shape without feeling overdone.
You are not comfortable with slim trousers.
But you want denim trousers with a mature, refined silhouette.
These are recommended for those who feel that way.
A sense of openness that cannot be achieved with a true-to-size fit emerges, and the slight added volume brings a relaxed atmosphere to your outfit.
At the same time, the silhouette itself remains clean and refined, allowing you to enjoy styling that is not overly casual and conveys a sense of mature ease.
<cantáte>
"Denim Flare Trousers"
¥49,500 TAX IN
The foundation is the W40-inch size of the renowned 517.
Taking that balance into account, this pair was reconstructed with contemporary sizing and patternmaking, and cantáte has continued to produce it for many years.
And the appeal of these trousers lies in their silhouette.
In terms of measurements, there is no difference between the knee width and hem width. In other words, if you look only at the numbers, they are straight-leg trousers.
And yet, when worn, the hem appears to flare slightly when viewed from the side or at an angle.
Rather than an obvious flare like that of classic flare denim, it is subtle enough that, depending on the angle you stand at or the way you move, you might think, “Wait, is it flaring slightly?” We believe that ambiguity is where these trousers’ sensuality lies.
It does not make too bold a statement. But it is also slightly different from an ordinary straight leg.
That is why we would like even those who feel they are not suited to flare pants to try them on once. They are far more natural than you might expect, and we think they will give you a slightly different perspective on denim than before.
This is a one-wash finish. The fabric is already comfortably broken in from the start, while still allowing you to fully enjoy its changes over time.
BLACK uses sulfur-dyed black yarn for both the warp and weft.
Despite its rugged denim character, the silhouette and the expression of the black have a certain sensuality. That balance is part of what makes this pair distinctive.
When looking at a new pair, you find yourself wanting to see how it will evolve.
The way the color fades and the way the creases form differ from person to person.
Even denim made from the same fabric will not develop in the same way.
Straight, Tapered, Flare.
They are all made from the same fabric, yet they look completely different when worn.
The shoes will change, as will the tops you want to pair them with. Simply choosing one pair of trousers naturally expands your imagination to the outfits that follow.
Now then, which denim should we start with this year?
The time spent thinking about such things is part of the enjoyment of a new season.
cliché Tomioka
