Integrity over efficiency. It’s all right to have at least one garment like that.
Good evening. This is Matsushima from cantáte.
The season has come to put on again this year the reversible jacket I wore so often last year.
What I think about each time I wear it is,“Reversible construction” is not merely a specification name, but the very philosophy itself.That is what it is.
<cantáte>
”Hand Rever Wool Flannel Jacket”
SIZE : 44, 46, 48
¥385,000- TAX IN
<cantáte>
"Hand Rever Chesterfield Coat-Alashan Cashmere"
COL : MID NIGHT
SIZE : 44, 46, 48
¥748,000- TAX IN
<cantáte>
"Hand Rever Chesterfield Coat"
SIZE : 44, 46, 48
¥385,000- TAX IN
<cantáte>
"Hand Rever French Blouson"
SIZE : 44, 46, 48
¥352,000- TAX IN
Today, I would like to explain why we are so committed to this technique.
And why cantáte’s reversible garments have a “quietly profound” presence compared with others.
I would like to tell you about the craftsperson working with the fabric behind the scenes.
Construction──the idea of creating three-dimensional form using fabric alone
With reversible construction, the first step is to A cutter blade is inserted into the middle of the double-woven fabric, which is then split apart.It begins from this point.
This is where the real challenge begins.
The cross-section of a typical hand-basted reversible garment
The reversible construction that gives cantáte garments exceptionally thin seam allowances
The cut edges are joined with a lockstitch, followed by seemingly endless hand basting.
In the cantáte method, this hand-basting process is truly extensive.
It takes roughly “an entire week” to make one garment.
From morning to evening, sewing, kneading, leveling the thickness, and sewing again.
the repetition of that process.
It is often described as a collection of “absences”—“no lining, no interlining, no padding”—but
That is not the essence;
The true value of reversible construction lies in the “process of sculpting the fabric into a three-dimensional form by hand.”
Taking time is not the goal.
A structure in which the fabric cannot become three-dimensional without taking timeThat is the reversible construction technique.
Fabric—The depth and shading of Super 120’s flannel
A bellows pocket carefully shaped with hand pressing.
These are the plump stitches characteristic of reversible construction.
From weaving to completion, this flannel takes more than two months.
Approximately four times that of ordinary flannel.
・Fulling
・Shearing (evening out the fibers)
・Developing the hand
These qualities are fine-tuned each time to suit the season and humidity, then finished without taking shortcuts.
It is not simply soft, nor simply lustrous.
It has an air-filled fullness and a sense of “depth” whose shading changes with the light.
The reversible construction pairs well with fabric that does not say too much, but is quietly deep.
Hand-Fell Armhole—the front line of invisible stitching
The armhole determines the range of arm movement.
This, too, cannot be completed by machine alone.
The sleeve cap contains generous ease to ensure freedom of movement.
The seam allowances are kneaded by hand and shaped to follow the movement of the shoulders and arms.
It is invisible from the outside, yet it is the most important point affecting comfort.
It is a process that runs completely counter to efficiency, but this “room” allows the sleeves to settle naturally.
Silhouette—light, deep, and moving
CREDIT
cantáte ”Brushed Nep Check Open Collar Shirt”
cantáte ”Denim Flare Trousers”
CREDIT
cantáte ”Fluffy Crew Neck Pullover”
cantáte ”Fluffy Wide Pants”
CREDIT
cantáte ”EX Wool Deep Skipper L/S Shirt”
CREDIT
cantáte ”Fluffy Crew Neck Pullover”
cantáte ”Fluffy Wide Pants”
CREDIT
cantáte ”Fine Garbadine French Trousers”
CREDIT
cantáte ”Rough Flannel Shirt”
cantáte ”Fine Garbadine French Trousers”
CREDIT
cantáte ”Fluffy Parka”
The flannel jacket follows the body the moment you put it on.
The Chester coat is effortless to wear, yet falls into deep drapes.
It is light, yet does not look lightweight.
It is soft, yet has substance.
it is relaxed without looking sloppy.
The reason this contradiction can be achieved is that
Because the “handcrafted structure” of the reversible construction forms the foundation.
The less visible the area, the more work goes into it
Even the flaps are hand-felled. Can you see the small, dotted stitches?
On the French blouson, all four front pockets are hand-felled.
The seam allowances along the structural lines are thinned and carefully finished so they do not create bulk.
Hand stitching along the shoulder line so it settles naturally when worn
A single-piece collar without a crescent-shaped gusset
The part that actually takes the most time in a garment is the “inside.”
Take this part lightly, and the garment’s center of gravity immediately falls apart.
Whether formalwear or workwear, few brands take things this far.
But cantáte has always believed this.
Clothing is defined by what cannot be seen.
In conclusion—clothing that is quiet, strong, and honest
It is not flashy.
There is no hint of trendiness.
it does not try to be “of the moment.”
And yet, the moment you slip your arms into it,
There is a feeling of your body slowly settling into calm.
Because the time spent sewing it inside over the course of a week becomes the comfort you feel when wearing it.
because it does not prioritize efficiency or tell lies, but faces the fabric head-on.
the perfect pairing with the Frisson Scarf
Reversibly constructed outerwear,
Quiet, strong, and sincere.
That season has arrived again this year.
Please visit us in store and experience how “the atmosphere changes.”
It is made in a completely different way from ordinary clothing.
cantáte 松島 紳
