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A good linen shirt feels cool right down to the seams.

Good evening. This is cantáte Matsushima.


Linen shirts,

There are countless such shirts in the world.


Cool.

Lightweight.

It is easy and convenient because it can be washed.


That is certainly true.


But

If that were all, honestly, any brand’s version would do.

<cantáte>

"Essential Line Shirt"

COL : NOIR , MILK

¥60,500 TAX IN

what I want to make is

not “a shirt you wear because it is cool,”

is “the shirt that makes you wait for summer because you want to wear it.”


This Linen Shirt,

at first glance, it is very basic.


And yet,

The closer you look, the less this is an ordinary shirt.

because it has been garment-washed, you can wear it without worrying about shrinkage.

 

The first thing that catches the eye is

is the edge stitching running at a width of 3 mm.


neither 5 mm nor 7 mm,

The reason we use this width, which could be called an in-between choice,

because this width strikes a balance that looks most refined while still having presence.


if it is too narrow, it looks insubstantial,

if it is too wide, it becomes too casual.


It is only a few millimeters, but

that difference greatly changes the shirt’s character.


and in this shirt,

rather than with conventional flat-felled seams,

The seam allowances of the sleeves and armholes

It is finished with “abutted flat-felled seams.”

puckering that appears evenly from top to bottom is the appeal of the abutted flat-felled seam.

 

this creates

at right angles to the seam allowance,

Beautiful, balanced puckeringappears.


it is about more than visual beauty.


As the seam allowances settle differently,

it naturally allows greater freedom of movement in the arms.


in other words,

It is not a detail intended only for beauty;

also has real significance for comfort.


This kind of “invisible rationality”

is something I believe good clothing needs.


The silhouette

with a boxy shape and generous room through the body.


the hem is cut longer at the back than at the front,

when you walk or catch the wind,

The garment is designed so the fabric naturally sways.

These two photos show the reverse side, but the flat-felled seams are as clean as those on the front.
I think it is rare to find something this well-finished.
If another brand did this, I would probably be jealous.

carefully folding it all the way to the end of the sleeve placket.

 

 

we use floating interlining for the interlining,

Moreover,We ease them in with a half-bias finish.

Hand-sewn buttons on shirts have become a rare sight.

because this is not something people will do simply because they are paid.

It is not a relationship of “I’m paying you, so do it,”
are the result of work built on trust.

 

The buttons, too,All the Takase shell buttons are attached by hand.


most people may not notice.


But

These accumulated details create that “something feels good” sensation the moment you put it on.A textbook-like three-roll hem stitch, with no puckering along the seams.

 

One of my favorite shirt details is the applied placket.

 

is a linen with very few slubs and a smooth surface.

 

The fabric

using first-grade flax from France’s Normandy region.


we carefully spin it using the wet-spun method,

By suppressing fuzz with our original dyeing technique,

an expression that retains linen’s refreshing lightness while hinting at a subtle sheenwe finish it with


While retaining linen’s characteristic rusticity,

never becoming too casual.


That balance,

I believe that is what makes them so cantáte.


the clothes you wear in summer,

The simpler they become,

there is no room for disguising flaws.


precisely because of that,

That is why these “clothes that look ordinary but are anything but”

they make the biggest difference.

When I was younger,

all linen shirts had started to look the same to me.


But now,

things no longer look that way.


As your eye becomes more discerning,

Once your eye becomes discerning, it really can be a nuisance.

 

cantáte Shin Matsushima