The Shape of Waste.
Good evening. This is Matsushima from cantáte.
Cargo pants,
but where does necessity end and excess begin?
More pockets are more convenient,
having more details makes them look more “authentic.”
but,
When asked whether every one of them is truly necessary,
also feel somewhat different.
This time's pants and jacket
That is where we began our thinking.
<cantáte>
”Shade Jacket”
¥99,000 TAX IN
"Shade M51 Cargo Pants”
¥71,500 TAX IN
The base was the M-51.
this is a highly refined pair within the realm of military garments.
pockets for function,
Tape intended for its purpose,
A structure designed for ease of movement.
everything has a reason.
That is precisely why
I felt there was no point in simply reproducing them as they were.
First, the pants.
We have retained the details as much as possible.
But we took the silhouette in a decidedly different direction.
Wide. substantial and wide.
Worn low on the hips,
It is fine if the hem drags slightly.
That balance feels just right for now.
Concealed snaps, indispensable in military garments.
When the head of a snap button is visible, it catches the light.
Because it announces its presence on its own, we keep it hidden from view.
A bell-shaped TALON zipper.
Nickel is nice, but the muted gold of brass is better.
its restraint—it does not catch too much light, which feels distinctly military.
What makes it distinctive is
a tape that hangs from the side pocket.
This tape is known as a hemostatic tape, it is originally a detail intended to control bleeding in the event of an injury.
While it is highly practical in terms of use,
this time, we have slightly changed that role.
Right now,
It is there to create “movement.”
Those who do not use it can open the hole and tuck it inside to keep it hidden.
because it exists purely as a function, you can choose whether to show it on the outside.
It sways as you walk,
It draws the eye.
But we have kept it solely for that purpose.
You could call it waste.
but,
That waste can sometimes determine a garment’s impression.
is the jacket.
This one, unlike the pants,
we have stripped back the details.
Without worrying about wrinkles,
It would be nice to have a jacket that could be washed at home.
started from that idea.
The fabric, combining cotton and hemp,
with a dry, tough texture.
It softens with wear, It gradually adapts to the body.
with a cotton-rayon lining.
The sleeves slide on smoothly,
it also offers reliable moisture absorption.
Because the garment is washed,
the puckering is built in from the start.
Rather than appearing later,
it is complete from the very beginning.
And from there,
Its character changes with the person wearing it.
A useful hanging loop at the collar.
A half-lined construction with tailored bag-style waist pockets.
It retains its lightness while ensuring ample storage.
Double-welt pockets, sized to comfortably fit an iPhone.
the construction seams are finished with flat-felled seams.
The deeper the creases become with wear, It gradually becomes more three-dimensional.
with a slightly elongated boxy silhouette.
Easy to throw on like a coverall,
Yet it looks refined somehow.
We aimed for the middle ground.
Buffalo horn buttons.
I like that indescribable texture that does not shine too much.
These two pieces,
and both are made from the same fabric.
The pants retain their details, the jacket is pared back.
Although what we do is different,
We are thinking about the same thing.
The small inseam stitch.
A favorite detail, whether in cargo pants or jeans.
You can see the work of a person in the subtle distortions and fluctuations.
A side pocket with one-way pleats.
Securing capacity while controlling the volume.
without this, cargo pants cannot begin.
If you ask whether it is practical,
to be honest, perhaps it is not quite that practical.
but,
If you choose clothes based solely on practicality,
there are plenty of other options.
If there is a reason to choose this despite that,
I think that is **“atmosphere.”**
D/GREEN is a two-tone hemostatic tape.
Somewhere,
it has the atmosphere of a scene from a film.
Although it is military-inspired,
Just slightly removed from reality.
It looks like something that person might wear.
it looks like something that person might wear.
If you can feel that way, This garment is already complete.
Double-knee pleats. They move naturally with the knees.
The old me,
I feel I may have expected too much meaning from clothing.
with a function,
With a reason,
but it has to be something you can accept.
Of course, that matters too,
is not enough on its own.
A little waste, that create an inexplicable sense of dissonance.
Those are the things
it is what ultimately stays with you most.
Looking at the tape hanging from the hem,
whether you think it looks good or pointless.
Looking at a creased jacket,
whether something feels casual or refined.
With people who share that sensibility,
We’ll probably get along.
cantáte 松島 紳
