Why don’t the discussions about the 501 line up?
Good evening. I’m Matsushima from cantáte.
Today, I won’t be talking about details.
For details, see “How to Look at Jeans in a Way No One Teaches You,”
For sizing advice on anything other than the new Denim Straight Trousers, please see Which style? Which size? A thorough comparison..
Perhaps because of my profession, I sometimes talk about the 501 with people.
But honestly,
That time has never ended particularly pleasantly.
“After all, the 501 is the best, right?”
“The 501 from that era is the best.”
“No, I prefer the earlier ones.”
Everyone is completely confident.
yet listening to them, I don’t feel as though they’re talking about the same jeans.
Strangely enough, that 501 belongs to no one,
No photographs or actual garment ever appear.
It exists only in people’s minds.
and besides, its appearance changes a little each time it’s discussed.
How should I put it,
being told about a cute girl no one has ever seen.it’s close to
I hear people say it’s cute, but as for exactly what is cute about it,
it’s a little different every time.
When you think about it,
And I think that’s only natural.
The 501 is, in fact, a pair of jeans that no one has ever seen “the same way”That’s why.
The 501s that remain as vintage have already passed through someone’s body,
the form it takes after taking on someone’s time.
Meanwhile, a new 501 is
is made according to an entirely different logic.
In other words, the 501 everyone talks about
None of them are the real thing.
An image blending memory, ideals, and longingis.
That’s why its appearance changes a little each time it’s discussed.
There is another decisive reason.
The 501 wasn’t originally “a garment for talking about shape.”
Making your legs look better, making your figure look better,
That way of thinking came later.
What was being asked for was,
That you could squat in them.
That they wouldn’t tear.
The ability to produce them quickly and in large quantities.
That’s all.
And still, now, we
Yet we overlay our ideal image of its silhouette onto it.
By this point, we’re no longer talking about the same thing.
That is why,
Conversations about the 501 are always misaligned.
The image of where the waistband sits. Memories of its width.
the imprint of faded denim—the afterimages of films and photographs.
It depends on what you grew up seeing,
The 501 in your mind becomes a different person.
and we call all of them by the same name: “501.”
Of course,
That’s why the conversation becomes blurred.
Here,
A somewhat blunt conclusionThat’s where we’re headed.
if so,
then why not make that “501 no one has ever seen”?
If it exists only in everyone’s minds,
to try, just once, to drag it into reality.
that’s what I thought.
What cantáte is trying to do is,
and it isn’t a reproduction of vintage clothing.
nor do we try to identify the era,
Things like XX or paper patches,
We don’t have those kinds of conversations either.
What we’re doing is,
To organize the 501 in your mind as a structure, once again.
Where should the waist sit to feel secure?
At what point does a width begin to look wide?
How far does “straight” extend?
Not dimensions.
It is a matter of sight and sensation.
People do not see trousers in measurements.
what people are looking at is,
The flow of the line.
The way they fall from below the seat to the knee.
The angle from the knee to the hem.
the movement as you walk.
That is why,
Even when looking at the same 501,
people disagree on whether they look “slim” or “wide.”
That is why,
A larger 517
there are moments when they look almost straight.
rather than whether they are flared,
how the line continues.
People remember denim with that illusion included.
Here,
the three shapes cantáte has preparedabout
Let’s get a little more specific.
None of them is “the correct pair of jeans.”
They are, above all,
when you hear the word 501,
The image that comes to mind,
Shapes distilled from different perspectives.
<cantáte>
”Denim Straight Trousers”
COL : INDIGO
SIZE : 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 , 36
¥49,500 TAX IN
Size : 32 inch
Size : 34 inch
First.
An ideal 501 cut that could never exist.
This,
A 501 someone has imagined at least once in their mind.
It settles strangely well when worn at the waist.
Wide, yet never dowdy.
Relaxed, yet never sloppy.
But,
was a shape that never existed as a finished garment.is.
The 501 of that era, before it could be refined to that extent,
They were sent out into the realities of production.
Shrinkage rates were not consistent.
No body types were taken into consideration.
Sizing was rough, with considerable variation between individual pieces.
That is why this cut is not a reproduction of vintage.
ignoring all the constraints of the time,
“If we were to create the idea of the 501 from scratch today,”
lines redrawn on the assumption that
While retaining the reassurance of the 501,
yet it is somehow too convenient.
Precisely because it never existed,
The image that has been talked about for so long
A shape once brought down to realityis.
<cantáte>
”Denim Tapered Trousers”
COL : INDIGO
SIZE : 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 , 36
¥49,500 TAX IN
Size : 32 inch
Size : 34 inch
The second.
tapered.
when talking about the 501,
It may not often be put into words, but
It is the shape many people seek unconsciously.
You like them wide.
But you don't want it to look heavy.
you want the line to end cleanly over your shoes.
While admiring the 501,
That experience of feeling, somewhere along the way, that they were “a little difficult to wear.”
This shape is the result of acknowledging that sense of discomfort rather than dismissing it.
A tapered hem width with the best balance
Tapering is not a shape intended simply to make something slimmer.
where to draw the eye.
where to bring the lines together.
as a result of that adjustment,
only appears that way.
actually, this balance
the shape closest to a vintage 501but also.
while retaining the memory of the 501,
a pair brought closer to everyday life.
<cantáte>
”Denim Flare Trousers”
COL : INDIGO
SIZE : 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 , 36
¥49,500 TAX IN
Size : 32 inch
Size : 34 inch
The third.
a flare based on the 517.
This cut is the most,
the word and the appearance may not seem to match.
When you hear “flare,”
wide, flashy, distinctive.
that impression comes first.
But,
a 517 one size up
When worn with the waist positioned higher and a deeper rise,
a completely different phenomenonoccurs.
even though the hem is certainly wider,
The legs,looks almost straight.
This,
This is not a discussion of design, but purely a matter of visionis.
a hem that falls in a distinctly flared way
People,
not the leg opening.
what people are looking at is,
the line continuing from below the hips
how far it extends without interruption.
Although it’s flared, it looks straight.
hidden behind the name 517
another image,
are forms deliberately brought into the open.
These three
they are neither rankings nor matters of superiority.
Only,
when they use the word 501
the image people picture
In fact, it isn’t just onethat’s all.
someone seeking a sense of security.
someone seeking beautiful lines.
someone who finds coolness in the illusion.
cantáte is,
We didn’t force that discrepancy into a single interpretation.
If so, we might as well line up three from the start.
that’s what I thought.
The discussion of how to recognize good denim,
that has already been done enough.
But,
Why does this shape feel comfortable to me?
few discussions go that far beneath the surface.
501 is,
not a finished masterpiece.
in everyone’s minds,
is still an unfinished piece, continuing to change shape.
if so,
The process along the way,
We put it out properly as a garment.
I believe that, too, is a form of sincerity.
”Denim Straight Trousers”
Size : 34 inch
with Rios on, the hem catches perfectly on the heel—it's sublime
if you ever talk about 501 again,
More than the other person’s words,
what kind of figure they are picturing as they speak.
Please imagine
I starched a brand-new T-back in size 00
probably,
each person in their own way
**“A cute little thing you’ve never seen before”**
we are simply doing our best to explain it.
And,
that's fine.
At cliché,
but the jeans that made that image real are here.
Not to check the answers,
For comparison.
cantáte 松島 紳
